Tasting menu restaurant in Østerbro, Copenhagen

Geranium

Three Stars Above the Terraces

4.5 of 5

Three Michelin stars live on the eighth floor of a football stadium. Parken is home to F.C. Copenhagen and the national team, and somewhere above the terraces Rasmus Kofoed is plating vegetables with the focus of a watchmaker. Kofoed won the Bocuse d'Or, the closest thing cooking has to an Olympic gold, and he runs Geranium with Søren Ledet, who handles the room and a cellar deep enough to get lost in. The windows look out over the treetops of Fælledparken toward green copper roofs and, on a clear day, the windmills in the Øresund.

There is no meat. Not a gimmick, not a sermon, just a decision. The kitchen works with biodynamic vegetables, foraged plants and berries, and seafood from species that are not endangered, across roughly fifteen courses that ask for at least three hours of your life. The current menu is called the Autumn Universe and costs 4,500 kroner. I distrust anything called a universe on principle. Then you see what this kitchen can do with a root vegetable, and the principle goes quiet.

Wine pairings start at 2,500 kroner for Heart & Soil and climb to a frankly unhinged 20,000 for Rare & Unique. The smarter move is the Fruit & Vegetables pairing at 2,300, which tells you more about how this kitchen thinks than any bottle could. A deposit of 1,500 kroner a head locks the table. Book lunch, sit by the glass, and watch a man who has spent his whole career on precision show you what it tastes like.

Order this

The seasonal tasting menu, currently the Autumn Universe, The Fruit & Vegetables non-alcoholic pairing, The Heart & Soil wine pairing if you want wine

The damage

$$$$

Go

Lunch, with time to spare and a window table over Fælledparken

Find it

Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 8th floor, Parken, 2100 København Ø

Website

geranium.dk