Restaurant and bar in Christianshavn, Copenhagen

Barr

Schnitzel on the North Sea

3.5 of 5

Barr is named for the Old Norse word for barley, which tells you what kind of place it is before you open the menu. It sits in an old warehouse on the Christianshavn waterfront and cooks from the cultures around the North Sea: Denmark, Germany, the Low Countries, Britain, Norway. That is a lot of herring, a lot of butter and a lot of beer, and nobody here is pretending otherwise.

Order the schnitzel. Barr calls it Wiener Art, which is a polite way of admitting they used free range pork instead of veal, and they serve it with a butter sauce full of anchovies and a cool cucumber salad on the side. Start with the grilled waffle under a heap of bleak roe and crème fraîche. Try the hake frikadeller, which is what a fishcake dreams about. At weekend lunch there is smørrebrød, including an elderflower herring that will make you rethink herring.

Leave room for the pine cakes, baked to order, fifteen minutes, worth every one. The four course dinner is 795 kroner a head, served to the whole table, with a beverage pairing for 550, and the drinks list leans hard on the same North Sea countries as the kitchen. Dinner runs seven nights from five, with lunch Friday to Sunday. Get a table by the window, watch the harbour, and do not share the schnitzel.

Order this

Barr's Wiener Art schnitzel with anchovy butter sauce, Grilled waffle with bleak roe and crème fraîche, Hake fish frikadeller, Pine cakes, baked to order

The damage

$$$

Go

Weekend lunch for smørrebrød, or any night from five

Find it

Strandgade 93, 1401 København K

Website

restaurantbarr.com