Rye, potato and a long winter

Vodka

Photo: Artem Kavalerov, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

In the field Grain that grows where little else will

Vodka is a spirit that tries to taste of very little, and the effort behind that little is real. It can be made from rye, wheat, potatoes or corn, and the best of it is judged by texture and finish rather than flavor. Poland and Russia both claim it, and this page sets the claims side by side. Follow it from a Sandomierz court record to a copper mug in a cold glass.

Find the distillery

    The vodka belt and beyond

    Birch country Birch charcoal, still the classic filterPhoto: Roger Jones, CC BY-SA 2.0

    Five hundred winters

    Water of life

    1. 1386 (told)

      Genoese envoys bring aqua vitae to MoscowLegend

      The story goes that Genoese ambassadors carried aqua vitae to Moscow and gave it to Grand Prince Dmitry Donskoy in 1386. Russian writers cite it as an early landmark. It is a tale passed down, and the drink in question was a medicine, not today's vodka.

      en.wikipedia.org
    2. 1405

      Sandomierz court writes wódka

      Polish scholars point to a record of 1405 from the court of the Palatinate of Sandomierz as the first written use of the word wódka. At that time it named medicines and cosmetics, so the record shows the word more than the modern drink.

      en.wikipedia.org
    3. 1474

      Ivan III claims the trade for the state

      According to Wikipedia, Ivan III set up the first Russian state monopoly on vodka in 1474. Russian accounts treat it as proof of an old trade. Poland answers that its records of the spirit are earlier. Both sides are making claims, and neither has closed the question.

      en.wikipedia.org
    4. 1533

      The word appears in Cyrillic

      The word vodka first appears in Cyrillic in 1533, describing a medicinal drink that Russian merchants brought from Poland to Russia. Each country can read that line as support for its own case, which is why the argument has lasted so long.

      en.wikipedia.org
    5. 1562

      Horilka is written down

      The Ukrainian word horilka, from a verb meaning to burn, is attested in writing in 1562. Polish gorzałka comes from the same root. The Slavic names for the spirit speak of fire, while the word vodka speaks of water, and both are old.

      en.wikipedia.org

    Two countries, two claims

    Poland says vodka is its own. Its case rests on the Sandomierz record of 1405 and a long list of old distilleries. Russia says the same, citing Moscow records from the 1380s, the monopoly of 1474 and the Cyrillic word of 1533. Wikipedia notes the disagreement is not very comradely. A Polish museum cites a survey in which most respondents believed Russia invented it. Historians point out that the early drink was a medicine of low strength, so the word and the modern spirit are hard to line up. Both claims are claims. The honest summary is that the Slavic lands, from the Baltic to Moscow, made it together.

    Distilleries and monopolies

    1. 1751

      Empress Elizabeth uses the word in law

      A decree of Empress Elizabeth dated 8 June 1751, regulating who could own vodka distilleries, is the first official Russian document to use the word vodka in its modern sense. The law came from a state that already understood how much money the spirit raised.

      en.wikipedia.org
    2. 1782

      Lwów opens an industrial distillery

      J. A. Baczewski opened the first industrial distillery in 1782 in Lwów, now Lviv. The trade was leaving farmhouse stills for factory floors, and what had been a homemade spirit was becoming something with a label and a price list.

      en.wikipedia.org
    3. 1804

      Haberfeld builds at Oświęcim

      Jakub Haberfeld founded a factory at Oświęcim in 1804. The Polish lands had several of these early industrial distillers, and their names, along with Baczewski and Kantorowicz, are the ones Polish historians reach for when they describe the trade before the monopolies.

      en.wikipedia.org
    4. 1823

      Wyborowa starts in Poznań

      Hartwig Kantorowicz is credited with beginning to make Wyborowa in Poznań in 1823. The brand became an international trademark in 1927 and is made from rye. It remains a standard bottle in Poland and a plain case for the rye tradition.

      en.wikipedia.org
    5. 1863

      Russia repeals the vodka monopoly

      Russia repealed its state monopoly on vodka production in 1863. Prices fell sharply and the spirit became affordable to people with little money. By 1911 vodka made up 89 percent of all the alcohol drunk in the country, which shows how quickly the habit took hold.

      en.wikipedia.org

    Smirnov and the revolution

    1. 1864

      Pyotr Smirnov opens in Moscow

      Pyotr Smirnov, born a serf in 1831, set up his distillery in Moscow in 1864. He pioneered charcoal filtration in the 1870s and by the 1880s supplied vodka to the Tsar. The name Smirnoff would later travel much farther than he did.

      en.wikipedia.org
    2. 1894 (told)

      The Mendeleev mythLegend

      A popular story says the chemist Dmitri Mendeleev fixed vodka at 40 percent in 1894. It is lore and has been debunked. His 1865 dissertation measured water and alcohol mixtures and never called forty percent ideal. His tax work was about revenue, not blending.

      physicstoday.aip.org
    3. 1904

      The state takes over the vodka industry

      After Pyotr Smirnov died in 1898, his son Vladimir took over the firm. When the Tsar's government nationalized the vodka industry in 1904, Vladimir was forced to sell. The family name outlasted the family business, though not in Russia, and the next chapter would be written abroad.

      en.wikipedia.org
    4. 1920

      The Smirnovs reach Constantinople

      After the October Revolution of 1917 the Smirnov family left Russia and reached Constantinople in 1920, then moved on to Poland and later France. Vladimir carried the recipe and the name into exile, and the distilling in Moscow fell to others who had no claim on the name.

      en.wikipedia.org
    5. 1925

      Poland monopolizes clear vodka

      In 1925 the production of clear vodkas became a Polish government monopoly. After the Second World War the distilleries passed to the state again, and during martial law in the 1980s the sale of vodka was rationed to households. The state held the tap in both countries.

      en.wikipedia.org

    Vodka goes West

    1. 1939

      Heublein buys Smirnoff for 14,000 dollars

      Vladimir Smirnov sold Rudolph Kunett the North American rights in 1933. In 1939 John Martin of Heublein bought them for 14,000 dollars and sold the vodka to Americans as white whiskey with no taste and no smell, a pitch that worked.

      en.wikipedia.org
    2. 1941

      The Moscow Mule is poured

      By the Herald Tribune account, Jack Morgan, John Martin and Rudolph Kunett made the first Moscow Mule in Manhattan in 1941, using vodka, ginger beer and lime. A 2007 report credits a bartender instead, so the origin story depends on who tells it.

      en.wikipedia.org
    3. 1972

      PepsiCo trades cola for Stolichnaya

      In 1972 PepsiCo struck a barter deal with the Soviet government, taking export and marketing rights to Stolichnaya in exchange for Pepsi imports, with Soviet bottles bound for American shelves. It was described as the first food production cooperation between the United States and the USSR.

      en.wikipedia.org
    4. 1979

      Absolut arrives in New Orleans

      Absolut was shown at a spirits trade convention in New Orleans in spring 1979, and the first American order, for 6,300 liters, came on 20 April. The clear bottle with printed lettering came from an old apothecary design. By 1985 it led imported vodka in the United States.

      en.wikipedia.org
    5. 1983

      Ketel One reaches San Francisco

      Ketel One entered the United States in 1983 through San Francisco, winning bartenders and distributors before it ever advertised to the public, a patient way to build a name. It comes from a Nolet family tradition in Schiedam that the family dates to 1691.

      en.wikipedia.org

    Neutral or full of character

    In the United States vodka was once defined as a spirit without distinctive character, aroma, taste or color. That is no longer the legal wording, and flavored vodkas are allowed. In the traditional vodka countries the idea is different. Distillers there favor careful distillation and light filtering so the grain still shows. A rye vodka can taste of bread and pepper, a potato vodka of cream and earth, a wheat vodka of sweetness and cold stone. Neutral vodka is a craft of subtraction, and character vodka is a craft of keeping something back. A glass of either is a plain thing that rewards attention.

    Premium and the rules

    1. 1997

      Grey Goose and Tito's both begin

      The premium boom had two very different starts in 1997. Sidney Frank launched Grey Goose in France with a cognac cellar master, and Tito Beveridge began making corn vodka in Austin, Texas, with 1,000 cases in the first year. Both would grow very large.

      en.wikipedia.org
    2. 2004

      Bacardi pays about 2.2 billion for Grey Goose

      Bacardi bought Grey Goose from Sidney Frank in 2004 for about 2.2 billion dollars. The sum showed how far a vodka built on image and a smooth finish had come in only seven years, and every distiller in Europe and America noticed. The sum was the loudest signal of the decade.

      en.wikipedia.org
    3. 2008

      The EU sets a definition

      The EU vodka rules took effect in 2008 with a minimum strength of 37.5 percent. After years of argument by the Vodka Belt countries, the compromise said vodka made from anything other than grain, potatoes or sugar beet molasses must carry a label naming the source.

      en.wikipedia.org
    4. 2013

      Polish Vodka gains its indication

      Polish Vodka received protected geographical indication status on 13 January 2013. It must be made from one of five cereals or from Polish potatoes, with every step except bottling done in Poland. It is a rule about origin, not a statement about who invented vodka.

      muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl
    5. 2022

      Stolichnaya becomes Stoli

      In March 2022 the Stoli Group changed the name of its vodka from Stolichnaya to its nickname Stoli, citing the invasion of Ukraine. Trademark ownership of the original name had been disputed between SPI Group and a Russian state company since 2003.

      en.wikipedia.org
    Old works A Kraków distillery, its stills long gone quietPhoto: Slawojar, CC BY-SA 4.0

    Vodka styles

    • Grain vodka

      Wheat and rye

      Most vodka today is made from grains such as wheat, rye, corn or sorghum. Rye gives a spicy, bread edge and wheat a softer sweetness. Poland, Sweden and Finland rely on these grains, and so do many of the best known brands.

      en.wikipedia.org
    • Potato vodka

      Starch and body

      Potatoes are an old raw material in Poland and elsewhere in the Vodka Belt, and the EU names them as a traditional base. Potato spirit is often described as fuller and creamier than grain, though the finish depends on the distiller more than the crop.

      en.wikipedia.org
    • Polish Vodka

      Protected origin

      Polish Vodka has been a protected geographical indication since 13 January 2013. It must come from one of five cereals or Polish potatoes, with every production stage except bottling carried out in Poland. The rule protects the name, not the old argument about origin.

      muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl
    • Żubrówka bison grass

      Sweet grass

      Żubrówka carries a blade of bison grass from the Białowieża Forest area in each bottle, giving a vanilla and hay scent. Because the grass contains coumarin, the original was barred from the US until a reformulated version arrived around 2011.

      en.wikipedia.org
    • Pepper vodka

      Pertsovka and pertsivka

      Pepper vodka is a Russian and Ukrainian favorite, made by steeping capsicum in the spirit, sometimes with honey. The Ukrainian pertsivka puts a whole pepper in the bottle and behaves more like a mild bitter than a plain vodka.

      en.wikipedia.org
    • Krupnik and honey kin

      Honey and herbs

      Krupnik is a sweet spirit of grain alcohol, honey and herbs, from the Polish and Lithuanian Commonwealth and at least as old as the sixteenth century. It is made at 38 percent or more. Ukraine has its own honey vodkas, called medova.

      en.wikipedia.org
    • Flavoured and herbal

      Infused spirits

      Flavoured vodka is no longer shut out by US law. Older infused traditions are the better guide. Sweden has some forty common kinds of herb flavoured brännvin, and Russia and Poland have long infused their spirit with herbs, grass and spice.

      en.wikipedia.org
    • Starka

      Aged rye

      Starka is an old Polish vodka, dated to the sixteenth century, that is aged, unlike modern American vodka, which cannot be aged in wood under US rules. It shows that vodka was once allowed to be amber.

      en.wikipedia.org
    • Neutral and character vodkas

      Two ideals

      Neutral vodkas aim for a clean, quiet finish, helped by heavy filtration. Character vodkas, often from traditional countries, use careful distillation and light filtering so the grain, soil and water remain in the glass. The labels will tell you which camp a bottle belongs to.

      en.wikipedia.org

    Ways to take it

    • Moscow Mule

      Vodka, ginger beer and lime over ice, served in a copper mug. Heublein's marketing in the 1940s made the mug a part of the drink. Choose a lined mug, since acidic drinks are better kept away from bare copper.

    • Szarlotka

      The Polish way with Żubrówka: mix it with apple juice, preferably unfiltered, and serve it cold. The name means apple cake, and the bison grass makes the glass taste of one.

    • Hot krupnik

      Krupnik, the honey and herb spirit of Poland and Lithuania, can be served hot, at room temperature or chilled. On a cold evening a small warm glass is the traditional choice.

    • Chilled with food

      In Poland and Russia vodka is commonly served very cold in small glasses alongside food such as pickles, herring and bread. It works as a companion to the table rather than the main event.

    • Vodka martini

      A classic cocktail built on cold vodka and dry vermouth, stirred or shaken and served with a twist or an olive. A good neutral or wheat vodka suits it best.