Traditional Swedish krog in Vasastan, Stockholm

Tennstopet

Goose Season in Vasastan

3.5 of 5

Tennstopet opened in 1867 on Fredsgatan as a billiard hall, under another name, and later turned into a Swiss-style café. It became the place people know on Vattugatan in the old Klara quarter, and when Klara was torn down in 1965 it moved to the corner of Dalagatan and Odengatan, where it still stands. Journalists, writers and artists have treated it as a second living room for generations. Someone wrote a whole book about it, Vi ses på Stopet, and the bar sells copies.

The kitchen follows the Swedish calendar the way a parish follows feast days. Vårkråka in spring. Surströmming when the season opens. Goose dinner for Mårten Gås in November. Weekday lunch runs from 11:30 to 14:30, with one dish for each day at 185 kronor and a fish of the week at 255. One recent week brought beef sausage with aioli and potato purée on Monday, pannbiff with cream gravy and lingonberries on Wednesday, and Pytt Bellman with an egg yolk and pickled beets on Thursday. The à la carte runs all day for anyone who misses the window.

Nobody here is reinventing anything, and that is exactly the point. The house says its regulars would not have it any other way, and after one plate of pannbiff you understand them. Leave the pram and the dog at home, since neither gets in. Book ahead in November, when the geese arrive.

Order this

The dish of the day at 185 kronor, Fish of the week, Goose dinner in November for Mårten Gås, Surströmming, if you are brave and the season is on

The damage

$$

Go

Weekday lunch, 11:30 to 14:30; in November for Mårten Gås

Find it

Dalagatan 50, 113 24 Stockholm (corner of Odengatan)

Website

tennstopet.se