Plaza Khao Gaeng

Rice, Curry, No Shortcuts

3.5 of 5

Khao gaeng means rice and curry. That is the name over the door and the idea on the plate. Plaza Khao Gaeng cooks Southern Thai food, which is the hot, funky, fish-sauce-forward end of the Thai table, and it does not soften it for the neighbourhood. The Borough Yards branch sits in an arch under the railway, a short walk from the market and a long way from the tourist menu.

The restaurant earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand in 2023, and three locations now carry the name: Borough Yards, Covent Garden and Tottenham Court Road. It started in the Arcade Food Hall, which is a pleasing origin story for a kitchen that cares more about flavour than furniture. Order a plate of rice with curries and let the staff guide you. Ask for the heat they would serve a neighbour, not a visitor. Southern Thai curries are the part of the cuisine that people from the south eat to feel at home.

It opens at noon every day and stays open late, but tables book online and walk-ins are first come. They do not take cash, and small dogs are welcome, which tells you the place has priorities. Go early if you hate waiting, hungry if you love eating. Borough has no shortage of places selling you a story with your lunch. This one sells you a plate. Keep water close.

Order this: A khao gaeng rice and curry plate, Ask the server for the spiciest Southern Thai curry on the day, Something from the grill or the fried counter if offered
The damage: $$
Go: Early dinner, because the tables go fast
Find it: Arch 207, 18 Stoney St (Borough Yards), London SE1 9AD