Wulff & Konstali

Five Small Plates or Seven

3.5 of 5

Wulff & Konstali says it was the first food shop in Copenhagen to let you build your own brunch out of small dishes, and it has been doing it for twenty years. I cannot audit the claim, but the format is everywhere in this city now, and somebody had to go first. You grab a menu, pick five or seven dishes from more than twenty, and pay 168 or 198 kroner.

The bakery is the backbone. Everything is baked every night in their own ovens, so the rye, the sourdough, the croissants and the cardamom buns are not reheated from a freezer somewhere. The best picks lean Danish: scrambled eggs with grated pecorino and chives, Gammel Knas cheese with blueberry and chia jam, cold smoked salmon with dill mayo and rye crumble. There is a citrus salad with roasted buckwheat and sumac, and a poppy seed waffle with apple and sea buckthorn fool for anyone who planned on dessert. The menu changes every three months. They hold the bronze Danish organic label, which means between thirty and sixty percent of what they cook is organic, and they say so plainly.

There are ten shops now, but Lergravsvej on Amager suits brunch best. It is close to Amager Strandpark, the kitchen is open, dogs are welcome outside and the trees give shade. They politely ask you to leave the laptop shut and skip the video calls. Do as they say. Eat, then walk it off on the beach.

Order this: Scrambled eggs with pecorino and chives, Gammel Knas with blueberry chia jam, Cold smoked salmon with dill mayo, A cardamom bun
The damage: $$
Go: Any morning from eight, then a walk to Amager Strandpark
Find it: Lergravsvej 57, 2300 København S, Denmark
Website: wogk.dk