Illustration by Fig & Ginger, drawn from the review. The venue's own photo is on its way.
Brewpub and Texas barbecue in Kødbyen, Copenhagen
Warpigs Brewpub
Brisket in the Meatpacking District
Copenhagen's old meatpacking district still has the white tiles and the loading bays. Mikkeller decided the right thing to put in one of them was a Texas smokehouse with its own brewery attached, and the strange part is how right that turned out to be. Warpigs is loud, heavy metal on the speakers, Twin Peaks in the design brief, and it takes both the barbecue and the beer seriously.
The meat is smoked low and slow for twelve to fourteen hours, dry rubbed, sold by the quarter pound off a counter, the way it is in Texas. Brisket, pork shoulder, spareribs, hot links. Four sauces sit on every table, including a Texas blend made with house lambic and cranberries, which is either a Danish joke or a Danish improvement. The brewery puts out as many as eight beers a week, and there are twenty-three of them on tap, from crisp lagers to hazy IPAs to barrel-aged stouts. If you are not drinking, the soda fountain is bottomless.
Go early. The kitchen sells out of meat most nights, and the late crowd learns that the hard way. Order the brisket, the beans and the hush puppies, ask the bar for a taster of whatever is newest, and share a tray. Somebody who has eaten barbecue in Dallas can tell you this is the real thing, a long way from home.
- Order this
- Brisket by the quarter pound, Burnt end baked beans, The hush puppies with pimento cheese, Whatever came off the brewhouse this week
- The damage
- $$
- Go
- Early evening, before the meat sells out
- Find it
- Flæsketorvet 25-37, 1711 København V
- Website
- warpigs.dk