Illustration by Fig & Ginger, drawn from the review. The venue's own photo is on its way.
Restaurant in Riverfront (between Chinatown and East Village), Calgary
Fortuna's Row
A Supper Club by the Bow
An old textile factory beside the Bow River is not where you expect to find Lima and Oaxaca keeping company. Fortuna's Row fills ten thousand square feet of it between Chinatown and East Village and calls itself a contemporary Latin American supper club. Plants, wood, concrete and earthy colors. It feels like a beach house that took a job downtown.
Chef Mikko Tamarra made his name with Con Mi Taco, and he has not forgotten what a taco is for. The braised pork belly taco is the first thing to order. The pincho is charcoal-grilled sirloin with shoestring potatoes and a smoky morita salsa. Hokkaido scallop ceviche brings the Peruvian side of the menu, bright and sharp. The cocktails are inventive in the good way: tequila and raicilla with hibiscus and salted rosemary, or one built on espresso, masa and Licor 43 that tastes like breakfast went out partying.
If you did not book, there is a Standing Room Only bar at the entrance serving drinks and snacks, which is a mercy. Big groups can order family-style harvest menus, and now and then the kitchen runs a taco omakase worth watching for. Go with a crowd, order more tacos than the table needs, and finish with the milhojas, puff pastry with dulce de leche and walnut.
- Order this
- Braised pork belly taco, pincho with morita salsa, Hokkaido scallop ceviche, milhojas
- The damage
- $$$
- Go
- With a crowd, any night from five
- Find it
- 421 Riverfront Ave SE, Calgary, AB
- Website
- fortunasrow.com